Giovedì, 02 Agosto 2012 10:28

Il Moscato di Ca' d' Gal e la ricerca di un perché

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Secco o dolce?. Domanda lecita da bar anni ottanta alla richiesta di uno "spumantino". Oggi vediamo così il passato.

Bottiglie di Prosecco e Asti da GDO. Lontane e non conosciute le voglie di confinare il vino in immobili posizioni da abbinamento, niente crostata o crema o torta alle nocciole per chi voleva bersi un bel Moscato frizzante allietandosi del tepore estivo.

Alessandro Boido, il re del moscato e viticultore in Ca' d' Gal, racconta spesso le gioie del nonno che beve, nello spezzare la giornata di lavoro, moscato con pane e affettato. Alessandro nel Moscato d'Asti ci crede, ci investe e ne parla con passione. Ha sempre cercato di farne un vino da bere più spesso di quanto non facciamo, ne ha esaltato le grandi qualità con il progetto Vigna Vecchia, un cru che produce uva di grande spessore. Il Vigna Vecchia non ha paura del tempo, la sua evoluzione regala ogni anno note diverse da quelle a cui siamo abituati da un comune moscato, come stare in un laboratorio dolciario in Sicilia e rovesciarsi addosso la vetrina dei dolci più gustosi.

Di recente un bellissimo evento presso la cantina di Alessandro ha visto all'opera i fratelli Cerea del ristorante Da Vittorio (tre stelle Michelin, mica gamberi di fiume!) presentare piatti in abbinamento a una selezione di tre annate di Moscato Vigna Vecchia 2006-7-8. Fin dall'aperitivo il palato giocava con frutti di bosco e con un originalissimo mojito, entrambi preparati con Moscato d'Asti. L'energia di Alessandro come sempre dominava la scena, io davanti ad un bellissimo tramonto pensavo: "Il Moscato d'Asti è talmente buono e godurioso, che ci deve essere una formula per berlo come un qualsiasi spumante!". Ho sempre sentito parlare di abbinamenti con la frutta o servito come entrée, ma poi non li ho mai visti realizzare, se non in rarissime occasioni.

Il Vigna Vecchia 2006 gioca su contrasti tra dolcezza e freschezza. Melone bianco, salvia e arancio candito. L'annata 2007 si contraddistingue per un'evoluzione fuori dai canoni, toni di botrytis lo rendono unico e dirompente. La freschezza del pompelmo rosa segna il 2008, i toni di crema non appesantiscono grazie ad un'acidità importante.

La tenacia di Alessandro Boido va premiata, l'abbinamento con i piatti dei Cerea dimostra la sua voglia di dire al mondo: "Non restate fermi nei dogmi dell'abbinamento, provate e riprovate!!". Tuttavia se i vini si sono rivelati al solito incredibili, i piatti così studiati per stupire attraverso note di pesca, ananas e curry, non conquistano il palato. La voglia della cucina di fare acrobazie cercando di raggiungere le istrioniche dolcezze del vino hanno reso il cibo "caricaturale", esagerato. Il salmone, insomma, non riesce ad imitare il Moscato.

Ed è qui che si accende la lampadina, la strada migliore per comunicare qualcosa è la più semplice. Come bere il Moscato? Come ci pare, come il nonno di Alessandro assieme alla mortadella o con la frutta in estate. Riportarlo nei wine bar comuni, nelle semplici enoteche e insegnare che alla richiesta di uno spumante si risponde: "secco o dolce?"

La mia replica sarà sempre: "Moscato d'Asti, Ca' d' Gal!"

PostScriptum: I piatti non sono stati assaggiati presso il ristorante, ma preparati e serviti dal catering dello stesso. Questo per chiarezza.

Commenta questo articolo

Simone Morosi

Più di un decennio con in mano un calice di vino e mai un momento noioso. Per me il vino è oltre il lavoro che faccio: amici da scoprire, terre da visitare, contadini da cui imparare. Tutto ciò non mi affatica mai.
Non amo punteggi o classifiche, quello che faccio bevendo un vino è chiudere gli occhi e riporlo dentro la bottiglia. Un percorso inverso che mi porti dentro la cantina, mentre il proprietario ne spilla dalla botte e ne porge qualche calice. Uscendo all'aria aperta cammino tra le vigne e cerco di imprimere nei miei ricordi una storia intera.

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